CAPE GIRARDEAU, MO. — This is the city in which I met my husband. It’s where we shared our first kiss, danced at prom and later brought our babies home to meet the family. It holds many romantic feelings for me, yet I’ve never thought of it as a romantic destination. But as my husband and I celebrated 18 years together — 18 years since that first kiss — we decided to head to Cape for a romantic getaway. For us, it doesn’t hurt that grandparents there can watch the kids.

We set the tone for the weekend by staying at the Bellevue Bed & Breakfast, owned by the charming Linda Dolan Langlois and Brian Langlois. From our tucked-away Highlands room with whirlpool tub to an incredible three-course breakfast (the fresh blueberry muffin was a favorite) to the old-fashioned porch perfect for sipping a morning coffee, the turn-of-the century Victorian was just right for our stay.

It was also a short walk to downtown and the riverfront.

Cape Girardeau is a river town of about 35,000 in southeast Missouri, about a 2-hour drive from downtown St. Louis. As a 17-minute history video at the Crisp Museum on Southeast Missouri State’s River Campus will attest, the town is steeped in its river history, from the late 1700s when Louis Lorimier helped establish Cape as an American territory and a place for barges and riverboats to stop along the Mississippi.

But Cape’s heyday just may be now. With a thriving university, new water park, animal park and downtown revitalization, Cape offers more than you might imagine.

“A lot of things are developing to make this a more interesting town,” said Bill Port, a member of the Historical Association of Greater Cape Girardeau, who was giving a tour of the Victorian Glenn House on our visit. “The history is important, of course, but so many things are going on right now, it’s hard to believe.”

THINGS TO DO

Hunter Valley Winery — Opened a year ago just outside Cape, the winery offers free tastings and often has free music on the weekends. While the wine is on par with much made in Missouri, the sweeping view of hills covered with Traminette vineyards sets the winery apart. You can sit on a deck built out over a tranquil pond, sipping wine in a relaxing setting. Sculptures by local artists are scattered around the grounds, part of a larger effort to highlight their work throughout the region. More information: huntervalleywinery.biz

Trail of Tears State Park — This 3,415-acre park, about a mile from the winery, is a memorial to the Cherokee Indians who lost their lives during the 1838-39 forced relocation. A visitors center features exhibits that interpret the march and explore the park’s natural features. You can fish, hike, camp or just catch a sweeping view of the Mississippi River. More information: mostateparks.com/trailoftears.htm

Glenn House — Although we noticed a lot of similarities with our bed-and-breakfast, which was built about the same time, we had fun touring the more majestic Glenn House. This beautiful home has been restored to its turn-of-the-century grandeur, complete with many original features, including some light fixtures. The Glenn House is open on the weekends, with tours led by volunteer docents from the Cape Girardeau Historical Society. Admission is $5. For a real treat, visit in December when florists take turns decorating the rooms for the holidays. More information: glennhouse.org

Jones Heritage Farm and Market — This throwback farm in rural Cape Girardeau will make anyone who has seen “Food Inc.” or read “The Way We Eat,” happy to eat again. Chickens roam freely, guarded by trusty dogs. Pigs eat grass, not animal byproducts. Fruits and vegetables grow without pesticides. The result, said owner Gerry Jones, is better-tasting food. You can tour the barns and fields, shop for meat, fruit or vegetables to take home, or dine in a glass-enclosed (air-conditioned) restaurant that serves the farm’s renowned Berkshire pork and plus many other foods. More info: jonesheritagefarms.com

The riverfront — A variety of murals reflecting the area’s rich history creates a beautiful backdrop for the city’s most charming area: downtown. The largest is the Mississippi River Tales Mural, covering nearly 18,000 square feet of the flood wall that separates the shopping and dining area from the river. The mural features 24 panels that tell Cape’s stories, from the native Americans to the Civil War and beyond. The nearby Wall of Fame Mural features famous Missourians from Josephine Baker to Cape’s native son, Rush Limbaugh.

Grab an ice cream cone at Sweet Sixteen, an old-fashioned ice cream parlor connected to Port Cape Restaurant, then head for a stroll along the river with its sweeping view of the Bill Emerson Memorial Bridge, a 4,000-foot cable-stay bridge illuminated at night by 140 lights. When you are done, check out some of the many antiques shops, including Renaissance (renaissancecharm.com) at 139 N. Main St., Pastimes (pastimesantiques.com) at 45 N. Main St. and Annie Laurie’s (annielauries.net) at 536 Broadway Street.

Dining — With the recent closing of the Creole French N’Orleans, Cape’s staple in fine dining, we decided to try one of two restaurants now considered Cape’s best. Celebrations (the other is Cain) was a delight for our senses. It is set in an old Spanish-style house, near downtown at 615 Bellevue Street, and has just a few tables in each room.

We loved our expensive (yet worth it) dinner. The stuffed mushrooms ($5) were yummy, filled with bread crumbs and cheese. But it was my pan-roasted Alaskan halibut in an almond and zucchini sauté with spring pea coulis ($31) that won me over. My husband had grilled pork loin —from pork grown just a few miles away — with andouille sausage sauce ($26). Celebrations tries to use as much locally grown vegetables, fruit and meat as possible. The back of the menu even tells you where they get their food.

We finished our meal by splitting the best banana cream pie ($7.50) I’ve ever had. Our waiter told us it’s the only thing that has remained on the menu for all 12 years of the restaurant’s existence. More information: celebrations-restaurant.com, 1-573-334-8330

Cape offers a number of unique places to eat. Some of my favorites: Broussard’s, 120 N. Main St., for the Cajun cuisine and loud music; BG’s Old Tyme Deli, 205 South Plaza Way, for the potato skins that draw me back every time I come to town; Port Cape, 19 N. Water St., for great barbecue; Pagoda Garden, 329 South Kingshighway, for Chinese; and Saffron, a pan-Asian restaurant, 1610 North Kingshighway, for its elegant atmosphere.

FOR THE KIDS

Cape Girardeau offers a handful of family attractions, most of them newly opened.

Cape Splash Family Aquatic Center • This opened on Memorial Day to huge crowds. It features a lazy river, several slides, a lap pool, a swirl pool and a spray pad. But be warned: It’s packed. Admission is $5 for kids; $6 for adults. More information: 1-573-339-6342

Conservation Nature Center — Cape Girardeau’s North County Park is the site of this center, which features fun exhibits for kids including aquariums, a play beaver dam and wildlife viewing areas. Out the back door and through the butterfly garden you’ll find access to 2 miles of trails that go through hills, over ravines and a mini swamp and near a sinkhole. More information: mdc.mo.gov/areas/cnc/cape, 1-573-290-5218 (free call)

Discovery Playhouse — Like a mini version of the Magic House crossed with the Science Center’s Discovery Room, the Discovery Playhouse on Broadway offers a nice break from the summer heat for younger kids. It features a children’s village complete with fire truck, bank and grocery. The playhouse also has an art studio, a Velcro ball exhibit, trains, a fitness center and more. Admission is $4. More information: discoveryplayhouse.org, 1-573-335-7529

Lazy L Nature Safari — walk-through animal park features llamas, ostriches, deer, buffalo, camels (and sometimes camel rides), kangaroos, zebras and more. It also has a petting zoo and a gift shop. Though the safari wasn’t completed on our recent visit, owners Todd and Vicky Lantz have big plans for it, and it is open now. Admission is $5. More information: lazylsafari.com, 1-573-243-7862